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Rectangular shawl of reversible silk and wool. Made on the Jacquard loom with double set of warps. The warp - silk ends fringed. This shawl is densely woven and has an 'all-over' formal abstracted cone and floral design, in silks of bright yellow, green, dark pink, cream and jet black, and polychrome wools with a distinctive green selvedge. 'Harlequin' border is pre-dyed in various colours to imitate the pieced borders of Kashmir. The rich exotic pattern of this 167 cm square shawl would be displiayed to great advantage over the spreading skirts of the mid-1860s. Dyeing the ends of the warp threads, before weaving began, created the more colourful harlequin border of arcaded motifs and the frings. The fuchsia pink threads have been dyed with a synthetic dye similar to mauveine.
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